Many are aware of Fermentation and Umami. Both are key elemental processes in Japanese cuisine. I attended the Washoku Registration as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage 10th Anniversary Symposium at Japan House on High Street Kensington, London on the 11th of March.
I registered because of my interest to learn more about Japanese cookery. For my clients, I have created various menus such as Thai, Indian, Mediterranean, and other cuisines. I could not miss this opportunity to learn more about Japanese cuisine, particularly Umami and Fermentation. Washuko is one of 20 Intangible UNESCO Cultural Heritage registrations, given 10 years ago to Japanese cuisine. This symposium was to celebrate that anniversary by bringing together chefs, government ministers, scientists, and other subject experts and chefs to discuss Washuko and how Umami and Fermentation are essential to the whole of Japanese cuisine.
Japan House is dedicated to present Japanese culture in one place. With art, artefacts, books, travel guides, food, pottery, cookery tools on display, you can learn more about Japan from the exhibits and the varied events that go on there.
Japan House is worth a visit or two!
You can find out more by going to the website Japan House.
The various organisations involved with the event included:
The Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries
Umami Information Centre
Japanese Culinary Academy
Embassy of Japan in the UK
Japan House
Jetro London
Sponsored by: AJINOMOTO, Mizkan, Kikkoman, Tazaki
Where possible, I have included links to websites for futher information.
Introduction.
The areas of Umami and Fermentation are important to Washuko and the UNESCO registration.
Umami is derived from the Japanese words for “Delicious” and “Taste”!
The history of Umami is interesting! I had not realized Umami’s long existence. Back in 1908, Dr Kikunae, a professor at Tokyo University, discovered “Umami” taste in Kombu seaweed. The whole subject of Umami was covered, one of the five fundamental tastes, alongside sour, sweet, bitter, and salty. This discovery dates back over a century to Japanese scientist Kikunae Ikeda. Umami is manifested as the savory essence found in foods such as meat, cheese, mushrooms, and soy sauce.
This led him to improve the nutritional state of the Japanese population by using Umami in Japanese cooking. Umami manifests itself as the savory essence that is present in foods like meat, cheese, mushrooms, and soy sauce.
In 1909, business manager Saburosuke Suzuki created the first Umami seasoning, called Ajinomoto, which translates as “the essence of taste”. The Ajinomoto Group produces a range of foods incorporating the Umami taste.
Dr Kumiko Ninomiya, a food scientist from the Umami Information Centre, discussed in some detail the history and scientific aspects of Umami, before the tasting recipes that highlighted the flavours, see the Umami section below.
These five primary tastes play crucial roles in ensuring food safety and quality, each conveying a distinct message. Sweetness shows energy-providing carbohydrates. Bitterness serves as a warning of potential toxicity. Umami assists in the identification of amino acids and proteins, which are crucial for good health.
Umami originates from three naturally occurring compounds in plants and meat: glutamate, inosinate, and guanylate. Glutamate, an amino acid, is abundant in both vegetables and meat. Inosinate is primarily found in meat, while the levels of guanylate peak in plants.
Extracting the Umami flavours is achieved through dried ingredients as the cell membranes are broken down and this allows the elements the Glutamate, Inosinate and Guanylate to exit the cells when boiled. Examples of dried ingredients are mushrooms, fish (bonito flakes), etc. Fresh ingredients with high Umami content include tomatoes, meat, and cheese. The diagram helps.
The symposium had a small exhibition of Japanese ingredient suppliers and books. Kikkoman displayed their products, and I encountered a Mizkan representative supplying sauces and vinegars to the catering sector.
Mizkan also own Branston, as in the pickle, and they recently acquired the gluten-free pasta product group Zenb. Kikkoman was also there and familiar as I use many of the products in my kitchen.
The books caught my attention–from the Japanese Culinary Academy; they have a supporting series of hardcover, glossy and luxurious books covering various elements of Japanese cookery. Seeking copies online was a bit of a wild goose chase. All seem out of print! The second-hand book online stores do not have any copies available. They also look as if they are likely to be near £50 to £100 plus if you can find one. I’ll delve deeper into research for other available books.
Umami
Dr Kumiko Ninomiya, a food scientist from the Umami Information Centre, started the symposium by explaining the scientific aspects of Umami along with the history.
Two demonstrations showcased Umami through exemplary dishes.
First, Chef Daisuke Hayashi, owner of Roketsu in London, discussed his use of Umami. He uses Dashi stocks as the foundation of his cooking. The exclusive restaurant has an interior made in Japan, packed, shipped to London, and fitted in the building.
The first recipe was a sushi, from Chef Shinya Ikeda (Chief Co-Founder of Yashin Sushi Bar/Yashin Oyster Bar in London). This delicious morsel was a Marmite and Kombu-cured Hamachi (Yellowtail) Sushi.
The Marmite Shoyu is made with Marmite, Sake, Soy sauce, and Yuzu kosho. The Yellowtail is marinated in this for 30 minutes. Then using some sake dampen some paper towel and wet the Kombu to moisten the surface. Then Wrap the Yellowtail in the Kombu, wrap with clingfilm and chill in a fridge for 24 hours. When ready slice the fish and smear with a slice of the Yuzu Kosho.
Finally, make a Nigiri sushi with the rice. Nigiri is a type of sushi consisting of a small ball of rice topped with cured or raw fish or other seafood. Shaped like a finger.This was delicious! I do not like Marmite on its own but used in this way, the Nigiri Sushi was perfect. The use of Marmite was a surprise but the Umami flavour that it imparts is amazing. Topped with a fine slice of mushroom, sitting on the marinated Yellowtail (for 30 minutes) then cured with a little sake on kombu, the fish then wrapped and cured for 24 hours made this special!
This was delicious! I dislike Marmite on its own but used in this way, the Nigiri Sushi was perfect. Using Marmite was a surprise but the Umami flavour it imparts is amazing. Topped with a fine slice of mushroom, sitting on the marinated Yellowtail (for 30 minutes) then cured with a little sake on kombu, the fish then wrapped and cured for 24 hours made this special!
The next dish that Chef Daisuke Hayashi (Owner of Roketsu) made was a Scallop Tofu with Mushroom Gelee. The picture may not do it justice.
The tofu is made with Scallop meat, egg, Ichiban Dashi, and light soy sauce. First stock brew of Ichiban, made with kelp/Kombu and Bonito flakes, is the most prized stock. The Mushroom Dashi is made from Cep mushrooms, Kombu, sun-dried tomatoes, dried morels and water. The Mushroom Gelee is made from the Mushroom Dashi, Light soy, salt, mirin, gelatine. Also, four scallops were dried for the dish as well.
The egg and the Ichiban Dashi are mixed and strained, adding the scallop paste and light soy. Blend the custard completely and steam it in a baking tin (bain-marie) for 25 minutes at 85C. Let it cool and then put it in the fridge to chill. The Mushroom Gelee is made by mixing the Mushroom Dashi with the Light Soy, Mirin, and salt. Warm the mixture and soak the Gelatine in water. Then add the mixture to the pan. Once gelatine dissolves, cool and strain into another container to set.
To make the dried scallops, parboil the scallops in water with a little salt. Drain, remove the corals and dry the ingredients in a low oven. Once dried, slice and add the strips to decorate the scallop tofu. To serve, cut the Scallop tofu into small squares, add the mushroom gelee, and strips of dried scallops.
This was unexpected! The tofu was delicate, the scallop and mushroom gelee were delicious together.
Fermentation.
Following a quick break, Fermentation was the subject in focus. The scientific side was presented by Doctor Johnny Drain, Material Scientist PhD, from Oxford University and a Fermentation Expert. Collaborating with chefs such as Redzepi of Noma in Denmark, he has worked with other Michelin starred chefs across the globe. He co-founded the WNWN Food Labs and created a cocoa free chocolate. He is also co-founder and editor of MOLD Magazine, which looks at the future design of food.
Fermentation is used extensively in Japanese food. Dr Drain covered the topic and discussed his involvement in using the fermentation process in restaurants and other food outlets.
Fermenting has been used by humans for food and beverage production, dating back to the Neolithic age. It is used for various purposes, including preservation, as seen in the production of lactic acid that is found in sour foods like pickled cucumbers, kombucha, kimchi, and yogurt. Fermentation helps to create alcoholic beverages such as wine and beer. Notably, fermentation naturally occurs within the gastrointestinal tracts of all animals, including humans.
Then recipes that incorporated the fermentation technique from a selection of chefs.
Chef Hideki Matsuhisa (Owner Koy Shunka based in Barcelona) presented a recipe for Shio Koji Marinated Hamachi (Yellowtail) & Kohl Rabi Textura (Kabu Kanran).
This uses marinated Yellowtail in Shio Koji for two hours. Shio koji (also known as koji salt) is a Japanese condiment used for seasoning or marinating.
To pickle the Kohl Rabi, it is placed in a container with salt water and tightly pressed with weights, then left to ferment for a week at 25C–room temperature. The skin of a kohl rabi is also fermented. The brine is also kept.
Use the remains of the Yellowtail after filleting it, along with the remains of the kohl rabi, water, Kombu, and Katsuo Bushi to make a stock. The process involves soaking Kombu in water. Grill the remains of the fish. Chop the kohlrabi leaves, blend them, and then strain the mixture through a sieve to collect the juice. Remove the Kombu from the water, add the fish and boil for 45 minutes. Add the kohl rabi juice to the Katsuo Bushi and the remains of the kohl rabi leaves. Let it stand for 10 minutes and then strain. Season with the brine extracted from the Kohl Rabi skin.
The Kohl Rabi is pickled with salt water, in a container and it is pressed tightly with weights then it is fermented for a week at 25C – room temperature. The skin of a kohl rabi is also fermented. The brine is also kept.
Using the remains of the Yellowtail after filleting it, plus the remains of the kohl rabi, along with water, Kombu and Katsuo Bushi to make a stock. The process for this is soak the Kombu in water. Grill the remains of the fish. Chop the kohl rabi leaves and liquidise, strain through a sieve to collect the juice. Remove the Kombu from the water, add the fish and boil for 45 minutes. Add the kohl rabi juice the Katsuo Bushi and the remains of the kohl rabi leaves. Let is stand for 10 minutes and then strain. Season with the brine from the Kohl Rabi skin.
This was distinctive in its flavours and delicious!
The recipe from Chef Yoshizumi Nagaya (Owner of Restaurant Nagaya based in Dusseldorf) was a Vinegar Cured Bream with a Black Sesame Vinaigrette. Unfortunately, I do not have a photograph of this one as my phone had disappeared under my seat! Too embarrassed, I could not crawl to search for it.
Bream is cured using salt, then wrapped in kombu. When done, the fillet is seared and is marinated with rice vinegar. Cut the fish into pieces that are bitesize.
The black sesame vinaigrette is made by mixing sugar vinegar and Katsuo dashi with black sesame paste. Then pickle some beetroot, in a mixture of mirin rice vinegar, sugar, and water. Then you can vacuum-pack it. To use, just slice as needed
Then a Tosazu gel made with Kastuo dashi, rice vinegar, usukuchi shoyu (light soy sauce) and mirin. Add agar agar and bring it close to the boil. When everything has dissolved, cool and store in a container.
Make Kombu chips from the wrap used for the fish, slice thinly and deep fry. Then assemble the dish by spreading the black sesame paste on the dish, pile the bream on and decorate with beetroot slices and the Tosazu gel, some Shiso edible flowers and Kinome leaves with the Kombu chips.
This was a spectacular dish! The various textures and colours just made the dish for me. The flavours were sublime, and the crispy Kombu topped it all together beautifully!
The final recipe to conclude the session was from Chef Youichiro Akiyoshi (Owner of Chakaiseki Akiyoshi based in Paris) demonstrated the making of Scallop with simmered Rice-Bran fermented cabbage.
Mix the cabbage, rice bran and a little salt and dried chilli. Flatten the cabbage in a dish and place a weight on top. Allow two weeks for fermentation at room temperature. Rotate the cabbage every two days. When you use it, rinse the cabbage to remove the rice bran. Cut the cabbage into smaller bite-size pieces. Lightly fry the food in sesame oil.
Remove the coral from the scallop, salt, and sear in the sesame oil until they are crisp. Put the cabbage, scallops in a pan and add enough Dashi to cover them cook. Lightly season with light soy sauce, mirin, and sake. Place in a dish and sprinkle with Yuzu zest. Yuzu is a small lumpy citrus fruit like a lemon or lime. The taste resembles a blend of lemon and grapefruit.
The unexpected mix of flavours included fermented cabbage, sesame oil, and Yuzu.
The panel session features Sat Bains, (the owner of Restaurant Sat Bains and Rooms in Nottingham), and Claude Bosi, the owner of (Claude Bosi at Bibendum in London). Also, chef Yoshihiro Murata (Owner Kikunoi, Kyoto Japan and President, Japan Culinary academy), hosted by Dr Kumiko Ninomiya. The conversation was a mixture of Japanese and English and there was plenty of humour between Sat, Claude, and Yoshiro Murata. They reminisced about the trip that Sat, Claude, and others in 2008, when they visited for several weeks to learn more about Japanese cookery.
Thoughts.
Being my first trip to London for five years, I thoroughly enjoyed the journey into London from the Isle of Wight. The environment at Japan House was contemporary, bright, and comfortable.
Attending the symposium justified my excitement as the food and presenters were amazing. The presence of multiple Michelin starred chefs ensured that the food would not disappoint.
What were the surprises for me?
Umami’s history and the extent to which Japanese chefs are using it to create flavourful dishes are noteworthy. The role fermentation plays in Japanese culinary practise also made me think about how it can enliven a recipe or complement a main ingredient such as meat or fish. It is unsurprising that fermentation is seen as a growing trend for 2024.
In 2008, Western chefs visited Japan, showcasing the evolving exchange of ideas, ingredients, and techniques in the past 15 years. I am sure it started before then. Researching Japanese chefs reveals their Michelin star status. The impact of Japan’s culinary scene is felt worldwide. It shows how Washuko can improve Western diets.
It has left me with a deeper curiosity based on the food I tasted and learnt from the afternoon at Japan House. I am determined to learn more and use more of the Umami and Fermentation techniques in my cooking. I am constantly learning, excited to apply new skills and ideas in the food I make for myself and others!Any comments and thoughts please let me know. you can reach me via Email or via Substack.
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Many thanks for reading! Please forward to anyone you know would be interested in the subject.
Paul, The Island Chef